fishing for words

(and tossing out random thoughts)


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a fantastic fishing weekend

For me, and probably Chris, the Labor Day 2006 weekend ranks as one of our best “fishing weekends.” Ever.

We drove to the cabin Friday night and arrived about seven thirty. After quickly unpacking the car and settling in, it was off to bed at an early hour. Four-thirty came early the next day, as it usually does, but we were on the road about an hour later. With lunch in the cooler and fishing gear in the trunk, we crested Sonora Pass at just about sunrise.

Our plan was to try new fishing waters, and our first stop was the West Walker River, which lies less than twenty minutes east of Sonora Pass. During our descent we weren’t alone; at various locations along the road quite a few Marines, who were hard to see in their digital camo, seemed to be preparing for a day of field exercises. (These Marine’s home, the Marine Corp. Mountain Warfare Training Center is just north of the West Walker River.)

0609 Labor Day 04 Wolf Creek Chris

Chris’ catch on Wolf Creek.

We were on the West Walker about seven o’clock. While we have heard reports that this is an angler’s river, we were skunked. Our first pass, walking quite a distance down from the parking area, was with spinners and nary a bite. While I returned to the car to pick up my fly rod, Chris took his fly rod upstream to what is Little Wolf Creek, which empties into the West Walker. Unbeknownst to me, while I spent about an hour basically practicing my fly casting, Chris landed four decent-sized rainbow trout out of Little Wolf Creek. When I caught up with him, he pulled in two more. I, however, couldn’t hook a fish, though some did show interest in Mepps and Panther Martin spinners. I also tried casting some flies, but didn’t yet know that this wasn’t to be the weekend during which I would officially break in my new fly rod. Much to Chris’ chagrin, we departed Little Wolf Creek about noon, and headed towards the South Fork of Lee Vining Creek, where I wanted to hunt down some brook trout that snubbed me in July. (This is the section that starts at Tioga Lake and empties into Ellery Lake.)

We couldn’t have had better weather at 9,000+ feet. Blue skies dotted with puffy while clouds greeted us as we pulled to the side of the road just east of Tioga Lake. We started stalking the brookies in this very small and often shallow section of Lee Vining Creek with surface flies. These fish didn’t want to have anything to do with me, so I strolled back to the car for my spinning rod. Upon my return, I avoided casting a shadow on the water and kept a low profile just upstream from a group of brook trout and cast my favorite Panther Martin (gold blade/red body). On about the third cast I had a taker and landed a small, but very brilliant brook trout. Chris, who was bit more nonchalant about wading into the water with his boots, used a fly to land a brookie, also about eight-and-a-half inches in this area.

Lee Vining Creek Bend

A bend in Lee Vining Creek.

This section of Lee Vining Creek also meanders into a bend that one might call a very small lake or big pond, but whatever it’s called, it is deep. Chris spotted some fish that looked like more small brook trout hovering just under the surface near the creek outlet but with trees lining the shore, he couldn’t quite get a fly out far enough, though he did get a few strikes. Sizing up the situation, I knew there was only one lure to turn to: a Kastmaster. Rigged with a 3/8-ounce gold Kastmaster, I threw — not cast, not tossed — this lure more than halfway across this little lake. Almost every other cast was met with a strike, and it was probably no more than five casts between each hook up. These were some of the most aggressive and acrobatic rainbow trout I have seen. Who cares that they were probably planted! Picture in your mind casting a lure about 200 feet and having it attacked shortly after you begin your retrieve. Once hooked, the fish goes wild, jumping three or four times and sometimes clearing the water before you’ve pulled him even halfway to shore. In our case, these antics often led to an “unassisted release,” but such is the dilemma of the barbless hooks that come with practicing catch and release. But it’s always a great day when you loose tracks of the number of strikes or lost fish. In addition to their aggressiveness, these were some hefty trout.

After hammering one pocket of the lake, we moved ten or fifteen feet down the shore to another point. Chris eventually walked back to the car to get his spinning rod, but couldn’t seem to get many hook ups. After watching me, he figured out that he was going too deep, so with a lighter lure with a faster retrieve, he joined in the fun. Our little jaunt around this little lake netted about 15 rainbows ranging from about 12 to 14 inches for me, and five for Chris.

This little lake once again turns into a creek paralleling Tioga Pass Road, and in following it we hit likely pockets and pulled in a ‘bow here and there. At one deeper pool, we each pulled out a few more fish before heading back towards Little Wolf Creek for few casts before we had to head back over the pass. While my luck held true to form — a few strikes on lures and nothing on flies — Chris pulled about four fish from the same little pool we had targeted in the morning. But after watching the last rays of the sun fade, it was time to head home.

The plan was to stick around Twain Harte (where our cabin is located) on Sunday, but Saturdays’ fishing fever was still with us. Even though it was late in the morning, we again hit the road in search of finned fun. In the spirit of trying new waters, we headed up Hwy 108 towards the pass, without an inkling of where we might stop. We finally settled on the Clark Fork of the Stanislaus River. I started out with spinners, but soon found that it was near impossible to target many of the likely pools because of over-hanging bushes. I did eek out one strike in a deeper pool, but that was it. Chris, however, was able to entice about half a dozen strikes from the same pool by using various bead head flies, including a few hits from what appeared to be a “monster fish.” But we left the Stanislaus, without landing a fish, and headed over Sonora Pass yet again. Our intentions were to head back to the South Fork of the Lee Vining Creek, but since it was late in the day we set off for other unfamiliar waters.

We ended up on a section of the Molybdite Creek, near the Obsidian Campground. This is a little creek that branches off of the Little Walker River and requires some precision. It also should require Kevlar pants. I, however, was wearing shorts. But I’m not intimidated by “adventure fishing” and we headed upstream — Chris with his fly rod and me with my spin casting equipment. I moved ahead of Chris as there were fewer pools suitable for a spinner, while he moved a bit slower, throwing a fly at likely pools. I was probably 50 yards or so upstream from Chris, and wondering if I might not catch anything, when I was almost shocked out of my socks when my gold Panther Martin was attacked in a pool no more than five feet long, four feet wide and maybe three feet deep. Out of this small pool came a vibrant rainbow about 14 inches long.

Realizing that I had forgotten my forceps, and hoping that I might catch more fish, I headed downstream to find Chris attempting to free his line from a branch that was underwater. He had hooked a fish that then wrapped his line around the branch and employed a “self release” maneuver. After helping Chris free his line, I borrowed an extra pair of forceps and headed back upstream.

0609 Labor Day 18 Little Walker Rainbow

WILD rainbow from Molybdite Creek.

No longer questioning that trout might reside in almost any pool on this stream, I tossed my lure into almost any water deeper than six inches, making slow progress through the brambles and fallen trees while avoiding cow pies. About 100 feet further I found a wide and shallow bend. After slowly covering most of this section with half a dozen casts, a trout broke the surface, diving after my little bumble bee pattern Panther Martin with a silver blade. I placed the spinner in the same spot and he struck again. Apparently this rainbow wanted to be caught…with cast three the fight was on! Though this trout was “only” about 12 inches, it covered the entire width of the stream a few times before allowing me a close look and a quick release. While I only pulled in two fish and Chris had only one hook up during about 90 minutes on the Little Walker, this was a great introduction to a stream I may visit again.

But by now it was getting close to sundown. Since we had to head back over Sonora Pass, we stopped, of course, at Little Wolf Creek. Chris set off on a smaller branch of the creek while I headed upstream to a small bend where the water cascaded over boulders into a wide and deep pool. Picking a central position, I was able to cast both upstream and down stream. Within a dozen casts I had a decent rainbow on, ending up releasing an eleven incher. I was joined by Chris, and over about an hour we pulled in five more trout. Knowing it was almost time to go we slowly walked downstream, hitting various pools as we went. About 30 minutes later — with three more fish for me and a couple more for Chris — we ended our great fishing weekend.

But what a weekend to end the summer! When we finally departed Little Wolf Creek Sunday evening, we calculated that the two of us had landed about 57 rainbow trout, 1 brown and 2 brookies. Not bad for two days of intense fishing fun!


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when I grow up…

Now that I’m closing in on 43 years old, I can proclaim that when I grow up I want to be Alton Brown (aka A.B.).  He is my hero.  When not creating and playing with “Good Eats,” A.B. had the time and resources to tool around our great nation last spring on a 2005 BMW 1200 LT (motorcycle) in an often hilarious month-long search of food found off the beaten path on a show called “Feasting on Asphalt” (F.O.A.).

F.O.A. offers an enthusiastic and skewed look at the burger joints, diners, drive-throughs, pizza parlors, pharmacies — yepharmacies — and sandwich shops that fueled American’s travels during the ‘30s, ‘40s, ‘50s and ‘60s.  The rules are simple for Mr. Brown and his four companions: (1) there will be no travel on major interstates, (2) there will be no eating at major chain restaurants, (3) if they can’t locate food or lodging, they will fend for themselves via camping, and most importantly, (4) there will be no whining.

His F.O.A. compañeros include Tom Munroe (Producer, Security, Omnivore; 2001 BMW 1150GS), Jean Claude Dhien (Photographer, Motorcyclist Extraordinaire, Role Model; 2006 Triumph Speed Triple), and Michael Clark (Motorcycle Maintenance, Recon, Intelligence, 2001 BMW 1150GS).  They are all culled from the staff of Be Square Productions, the team that I think that A.B. might agree elevates “Good Eats” in every measure.  They are supported by a truck manned by Mike Clark (Sound Recordist, Mixer, Navigator), Ramon Engle (Cameraman, Protocol, Dairy Enthusiast), and Lamar Owen (Cameraman, Lighting, Wheel Man).  One of the most unique, although fleeting, aspects of this show is a sharing of the latitude and longitude of the group’s various stops, ostensibly for us GPS fiends.  Very cool.  Very A.B.

After all, how can one not like a guy who calls MacGyver his patron saint and gets “…very uptight paying more than $100 for a meal — and that’s two people — because I expect so much of it that it makes me uptight.”  Another A.B. witticism: “There are only two kinds of food: good and bad. Also, all of life’s big problems include the words ‘indictment’ or ‘inoperable.’ Everything else is small stuff.”

Almost cool.  Somewhat nerdy.  My hero.


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20 burgers, 1 at a time

Our noble quest to sample “The 20 Hamburgers You Must Eat Before You Die” (according to GQ columnist Alan Richman and featured on Oprah) moved ahead today with a trip to Bistro Don Giovanni in Napa.  Bistro Don Giovanni’s Grilled Bistro Burger, ranked No. 11 on the list, is quite the char-grilled burger.  The thick patty, squeezed between two fantastic buns (this writer believe that “custom” buns can push any great or even good burger into the awesome category), presented a grilled outer crust encasing a wonderfully lean but juicy interior.  Karen loved the fact that the meat is ground in the restaurant and the Grilled Bistro Burger can be served so raw that the wait staff almost needs to herd it to the table.  Karen topped hers with lightly grilled red onions while I opted — surprise — for bleu cheese.  Onion rings rounded out Karen’s lunch; fries completed mine.  (According to our superb waiter, the fries were made from potatoes grown in the garden about five feet from our window seat.)

This topped off a very nice day in the Napa Valley, where we hit Summers Winery & Vineyards, Conn Creek Winery, Domain Chandon, and The Hess Collection Winery.  They all had some good wines, but we ended up picking up Summers Winery’s 2005 Rosé (Definitely not your father’s rosé!), Conn Creek’s 2003 Grand Reserve Villa Mt. Eden Cabernet Sauvignon (a very drinkable cab) and Hess’ 2004 Artezin (a zinfandel with grapes from Mendocino, Sonoma and Amador counties, and very fruity).  It was a great day off!

Oh…didn’t write about it before, but our first sampling from “The 20 Hamburgers You Must Eat Before You Die” took place a few months ago with a trip to The Burger Joint in San Francisco.  Again, if you like burgers, this is a great place to visit when in The City.  This is your basic 1950’s retro burger place.  The menu only offers hamburgers, cheeseburgers, mini cheeseburgers, Gardenburgers, chicken breast sandwiches and hot dogs.  All come with fries or onion rings.  The beverage list is just as simple.  The Burger Joint’s burgers are made with pure beef (Niman Ranch beef – no chemicals, no hormones, no antibiotics).  They are GOOD.  We visited the Valencia Street restaurant, and once you get past the neighborhood’s run down appearance, The Burger Joint is one of the cleanest (even the bathrooms were among the cleanest I’ve seen) and “best-est” burger places around.

Once we’ve recovered from eating these red meat marvels, I’m thinking that our next stops will be at Seattle’s Red Mill Burgers (for the Double Bacon Deluxe with Cheese), then to Santa Monica for a stop at The Counter (to experience its Build Your Own Burger) and Houston’s (for it’s California Burger), even if Houston’s is part of a larger chain.


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fast cabin weekend

We headed up to the cabin last Thursday…it was nice to make the drive during the week and avoid traffic! My nephew Nick was attending summer camp in Twain Harte, so, since my sister would be in town, I offered a chance to stay a few days. I met Luci and her youngest son, Nathan, at the Tracy In-N-Out, a favorite lunchtime stop, about [singlepic=119,150,,right]noon Thursday. We parted ways but soon joined up again at the cabin. After I quickly whacked the weeds, we headed to Twain Harte Lake, where the weather and water were great. Truthfully, the water wasn’t that great. Water weeds — one of Luci’s least favorite aspects of lake swimming — were quite high. The lake had recently been treated for the infernal vegetation, but the affects were not yet evident.

A decision was made on Friday that I would take my nephews to Moccasin Creek, so after a morning of playing games and generally being lazy, we headed west on Hwy 108, then south on Hwy 120. We arrived just before the hatchery was to close, but did get to ogle some of the brood fish and the mass quantities of trout ready for stocking. We first wetted our lines at the base of the dam, but the fish were running deep and not interested in what we had to offer. While Nathan and his mom played in the water and chased crayfish, Nick and I ventured through the blackberries and bugs to my favorite spot. Using PowerBait, Nick got one nibble. I was lucky enough to hook three decent-sized rainbows using my favorite Panther Martin (red body/gold blade). Then it was back to the dam, where the boys splashed around and skipped rocks…including the biggest boy.

I left the cabin mid-morning Saturday to head to Modesto, where I picked up Chris after lunch at Garcia Jo Jo’s. On our ride back to the cabin, we stopped at Moccasin Creek, where the catching was again a bit slow. I landed one rainbow after my fist cast, but that was about it. It was back to the cabin and to the lake, where we had a great 4th of July hamburger dinner, even if the wait was a bit long. As the sun set, Chris, Nick and Nathan headed to the lake inlet with fishing poles in hand. Chris did catch some fish.  However, they were a bit difficult to see…none were longer than my pinkie finger. (Big-mouthed baby bass.)

Sunday started early, with Chris and I out the door by 6:30 a.m. We planned to spend the day at Kennedy Meadows, but fast and high water changed our minds. We saw numerous fishermen pass by, but all were empty handed. Finding that we were close to Sonora Pass, I figured we could head on over to the “Eastside,” where Chris wanted to hit one of his favorite spots: Lee Vining Creek. The water was again high with none of the regular pools. No rises to flies and nothing on spinners. I suggested heading up the Tioga Road for a look at Saddlebag Creek, which we also found running quite fast…so fast that one fly fisherman who was there teaching a buddy had no expectations of a bite. On our list of streams to check out was the section of Lee Vining Creek that goes between Tioga and Ellery lakes, so off we went. Chris was again skunked here, but I happened to hook three small trout on a gold Mepps, but only pulled one — a nine-inch brook — to shore. (In fumbling for my camera and minimize any stress on this trout, the little brookie opted to release itself from my barbless hook.) After lunch, we stopped at Pickle Meadows, another spot we had wanted to check out, and chatted with some fly fishermen who were departing after fishing the West Walker River most of the day. One of these gentlemen has fished the area for going on a decade and predicted that it will be another two weeks before the West Walker might even be ready for fishing. Chris and I walked a stretch of the river to find, like everything else, it’s still running very high and fast, though the color is clearing up. Though there was little catching on this trip, the weather was beautiful and my batteries were recharged!


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day trippin’

Last Friday Chris and one of his friends went to work with me so that I could drop them off at Nicasio Reservoir to try some fishing for crappie. The morning was uneventful — both for the boys and myself. The plan was that I would pick up the boys about noon and we’d head home. However, as luck would have it, on the way out to the reservoir we saw the Marin French Cheese Co. (I didn’t know it was on the road we would take) and Chris later realized that the Drakes Bay Oyster Co. (which we had seen on a Food Network show) was about 30 minutes way from Nicasio Reservoir.

It didn’t take much for me to agree to the drive out to Point Reyes National Seashore on the Marin Headlands. Trusting my GPS to get us there, we arrived at Drakes Bay Oyster Co. after winding our way through the dry hills of Marin County, the town of Inverness and the more lush landscape of Point Reyes. The modest-looking Drakes Bay Oyster Co. is nestled up against the shore of Schooner Bay in Drakes Estero and is surrounding by stacks of oyster shells. Even the unpaved road leading to the cannery is composed of crushed oyster shells.

We found the shop is quite small, dominated by whiteboard signs with prices for oysters of various sizes and quantities, in the shell and shucked. It was much more modest that we expected, and when we asked if we could get some barbecued oysters, the response was, “You can use our grill out back, I think it’s fired up.” Chris secured a dozen medium-sized oysters, which we placed on the grill with another dozen purchased by another visitor. The oysters steamed, sizzling and popping, while we enjoyed the somewhat chilly but otherwise nice day. After about 20 minutes, we pulled a few oysters off the grill, sprinkled on some lemon juice or Tabasco sauce or a chili pasta and munched away. They were awesome…probably the best oysters I’ve eaten. (Chris has already asked to make a return trip.)

With four oysters each, our stomachs were content and it was time to head back to the “mainland,” but not without a stop at the Marin French Cheese Co. Marin French Cheese will always be that “stinky cheese place” in my mind, and image created by a visit years ago. We didn’t take the tour, but if we did I am sure that the storage room would still have that musty, stinky smell. But now that smell isn’t so stinky to my more mature nose. In typical Konoske fashion, we descended upon the samples and finally settled on buying some blue cheese and triple-cream brie. While Chris and his friend walked around the nearby pond, trying to lure bluegills and carp to their hooks, I munched on some olives before we left for home. A nice day trip that I’d recommend to anyone, oyster lover or not.

P.S. The National Park Service doesn’t plan to renew Drakes Bay Oyster Co.’s lease when it expires in 2012.


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fathers day fishing

Though we shifted from our original plan to head over Sonora pass to the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevadas, Chris and I had fun weekend of (mostly) catch and release fishing. We left about mid morning Friday, taking our time driving into the foothills and stopping for lunch along the way. A stop at the Mother Lode Fly Shop convinced us that it wouldn’t be too productive to spend the three hours driving over Sonora pass or even to venture into any of the local rivers as water levels were high enough to be dangerous, much less conducive to fishing. I got similar advice from Ken’s Sporting Goods in Bridgeport: Just avoid the rivers for now.

So after settling into the cabin about 2:30 p.m., we headed up to the canal for a look. We tossed a few lures and Chris got one strike. Then he hooked three small rainbows and landed in two, giving one to a nearby angler. (We are using barbless hooks exclusively, but if it looks like a fish may not survive because of an injury, we “donate” it to a fellow fisherman.) But Chris wanted to get down to Moccasin Creek, and about 35 minutes later we were there.

Moccasin is pretty much a “put and take” stream, supplied by a nearby hatchery.We typically avoid the top of the stream at the base of the Moccasin Creek Power Plant dam, and skipped to some pools downstream. Chris had ventured to the other side of the steam and we eventually lost sight of each other. Threading my way through overgrown blackberry bushes I found an attractive looking, dark green pool in front of a big boulder after a few casts and a single strike, I decided to toss the little Panther Martin lure (red body/gold blade) past the boulder with the idea of bringing it up behind any fish that might be in front of the boulder. To my surprise, I had a fish on almost as soon as the lure hit the water. I shifted my focus to the shallows behind the boulder and over the course of about an hour hooked eleven decent-size “stocker” rainbow trout and landed seven. Chris caught up with me, hooked one trout, but the bite slowed and we left shortly thereafter.

I stumbled out of bed at 5 a.m. Saturday to be told by Chris that he needed another hour of sleep. An hour later, he was not showing any signs of strong motivation, so I shelved our plans for early morning fishing, hoping that on this day we’d have the same experience in the afternoon as I did Friday. I arrived back at Moccasin Creek about 11:00 a.m. with plans to wade as far as we could downstream, maybe even to the inlet into Don Pedro Lake. Fishing as we went, we made our way downstream, but found little action. Chris had a few strikes, I had one. In the end, while we may have gotten close to the inlet, the banks of the stream became so overgrown with blackberries and the water grew so deep that we turned around. Heading upsteam is much more difficult and one of my knees shows the scars of such a battle.

About mid afternoon we came up on the same pool and shallows that were so good to me the previous afternoon. Another fisherman and his female companion had set up on the shore. Apparently, with bait, he had plucked five fish from the stream (the limit) over the course of most of the day. Chris and I approached the area from the opposite side and started casting lures. Near as I can figure, over about two hours Chris and I together hooked about 12 fish, landing about half of them. I was having fun throwing lures on the shore, then pulling them into the stream right where the water undercut the bank a bit. Numerous times I was caught off guard by a fish that took my lure almost as soon as I had reset my bail. After a while, lures seemed to fall from favor, so, despite our typical avoidance of bait, Chris and I set up for salmon eggs and PowerBait. We caught another three or four fish with bait.

As the day entered the twilight hours, we moved upstream to “the pipe” (where the water exits the dam) and met a local guy who had retired to the area and regaled us with fish tales. According to him – and he seems correct – the fish start biting just about the time most folks leave. He invited us to set up next to him and after a few minutes he had a fish on. Chris stuck up a conversation with this gentleman, who is originally from San Jose, and found out that he had a special trick for floating earthworms past a boulder deep in the pool. In the meantime, Chris hooked two more fish and gave him to our fellow fisherman, who decided three trout was enough. As he departed, he left the remainder of his earthworms with Chris and I. A bit later, a father and his young son started fishing a bit downstream from us. Employing our newly learned earthworm trick, Chris and I had double hook up and gave the two trout to the father and his son. (This father was there because his son loves to eat trout.) We finished out the evening, about when it was too dark to see and after we had exhausted our supply of earthworms, plucking a few trout out with PowerBait. It was a “troutfully” fun weekend!


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hwy 108 open, but not for us

The good news is that Hwy 108 over Sonora Pass is open. The bad news is that Chris is sick, so we aren’t going up for the long weekend. Washed the cars yesterday, so figure we’ll do some around-the-house work, maybe go to the office, where Chris will help me plow through some old computers and prepare them for recycling. Will be nice to not to have to get up for three days.

Oh, BTW, my newest acquisition is below.
"Newport" Shirt


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a rainy Sunday drive…

Headed out toward Half Moon Bay on Sunday with Chris, even through the horizon was hidden by clouds. We were given a hint of things to come as we passed through Hayward, where heavy rain slowed our passage.  But we were given to a bit of optimism in San Mateo, where it was relatively dry. It was a bit odd to drive westbound on Highway 92 during daylight hours as we usually drove this road on the way to a day of rock fishing, at oh-dark-thirty in the a.m.

Edge of the World Sign

The road to nowhere…

We pulled onto Half Moon Bay’s Main Street shortly after the noon hour and walked around looking for a place to eat.  Nothing struck our fancy, so it was time to head north. Soon after passing the intersection of Highways 92 and 1, we were greeting by a funny, improvised sign. We pulled off at Pillar Point and quickly decided to give the Half Moon Bay Brewing Co. a try.  We enjoyed some very good fish and chips, and I drank a very good Bootlegger’s Brown Ale. (Too bad it’s not bottled!)

After lunch and after the rain had slackened, we headed south on Highway 1, taking in the dray and somewhat dreary view. Stopped briefly at the Pigeon Point Lighthouse, then headed towards Pescadero.  I was going by my limited memory of a street name that might lead us to the Harley Farms Goat Dairy, and with the help of an almost-too-small sign, found the turn. Even finding the cheese shop was a bit difficult as it’s tucked behind a farm gate with no prominent sign. Luckily, we were at the gate when Dee Harley, the driving force behind the farm, passed by leading a tour and invited us to poke around the shop. Chris and I probably ate more of the cheese samples than might be considered polite, but that speaks to how good it was. I would definitely recommend that anyone who enjoys goat cheese stop here.  We bought two plain chèvre logs and a small block of goat feta cheese.

Just about the time we turned on to Highway 92, headed for our reason for this trip (my nephew’s baseball game), I got a call that the game had been called due to rain. But that didn’t stop us from heading over to my sister’s for a fun visit and good food at Windy City Chicago Style Pizza, also home of “Knuckle Suckin’ BBQ.” Even got to listen to my other nephew play a bit of “Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star” on the piano. It was a good day.


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Phoenix | part drei: quick tour, skyharbor

At 11:15 a.m. Friday, my tour of duty ended with the closing session of the conference. After quick trip to my room, a change to shorts and after dropping my luggage off with the concierge, I joined the midday rush to lunch. During the walk I took on my first night in town, I passed by the Wells Fargo museum and found the Phoenix Police Museum, which I had planned to visit if time allowed. I first stopped at the Wells Fargo museum. It is typical of a small corporate museum, but in perusing its exhibit I learned of Arizona’s own little gold and silver rushes and spent time looking over a collection of guns accumulated by one of the banks former presidents.

Thankfully, it was cooler today, so my stroll through Patriots Park was nice. But again, I found it odd. Patriots Park is one block by one block plaza. It’s relatively new, with trees, brick walkways and planters, and a lawn in front of a stage covered by sweeping canvas panels.  It’s quite nice.  But it is used by only a few souls, some homeless, to get out of the sun. Kitty corner to the opposite end of Patriot’s Plaza is the Phoenix Police Museum.

This is a stop I can recommend to anyone who even has a passing interest. The Phoenix Police Museum is small, but full of interesting tidbits related to the history of Phoenix law enforcement. I was lucky enough to visit on a day during which the first female police officer was working as a docent. She and her daughter personally regaled me with tales of her experiences; tell me how the first uniform for women police officers was based on the uniform used by the WACS, but when she was told that her uniform was going to cost $167 (an there was no uniform allowance), she prompted made her own, which was accepted by the department.  As she was required to wear a skirt and could not wear a belt, all her gear ~ gun, sap, flashlight, ammunition ~ when into her purse, which tipped the scales at 47 pounds! Also, the high-heeled shoes she wore pretty much prohibited running, so she became adept at throwing her sap or flashlight to stop fleeing suspects. She also solemnly showed me a room in which officers who fell in the line of duty are memorialized. Quite a woman.

After spending more time than I expected a the Phoenix Police Museum, I headed back to the hotel to catch a shuttle to Sky Harbor.  The shuttle company also runs Lincoln Towncars and, apparently, it is first-come/first-gives-the-customer-a-ride at the top of the hour, I rode in luxury back to the airport, where I grabbed a leisure lunch.

Airports can be great places to people watch (and listen). An old couple argued over the solution to a Soduko puzzle. A young lady consoled her boyfriend about her leaving, blaming her departure on her mother. Folks of all shapes, sizes and ages bee-bop to music fed to them via Ipods. Cells phones sprout from the ears of just as many folks. Another couple seemed to revel in their new-found ability to pick up and head out of town, now that their youngest child was out of the house. It was a good thing that people-watching kept me entertained…my flight was 30 minutes late.  Out my window I can see topside of fluffy clouds kissed by the last rays of the setting sun.  We’re plying our way home at 30,000 feet.  For a trip that I viewed as disruptive to my routine at work and at home, it sure had some highlights.

P.S. It is a funny site to see folks, who are waiting for the bus in the late afternoon, scattered about in a seemingly random manner until one realizes they are all seeking any shade they can find.


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Phoenix | part zwei: a walk and a restaurant

The conference Thursday went as planned and about 5:45 p.m. I was free of my suit and free to do my own thing. Having “virtually” scoped out Phoenix in advance online, I had decided that I would sample what is called one of the greatest neighborhood Sonoran (Mexican) restaurants. It would be a 2.3-mile hike, but I felt up for the adventure. What I couldn’t anticipate was how rapid the change from neighborhood to neighborhood. I walked east on Jefferson Street past Chase Field ~ where, if I were a baseball fan I would have gone to see the Cubs visiting the Diamondbacks ~ and proceeded south on 7th Street. After passing Chase Field and descending the 7th Street “bridge” (it crosses railroad tracks), without any transition I exited the city center to find myself in a heavy industrial area. The inventory of various companies ~ huge hydraulic cylinders, pipes, slaps of metal, bricks and the like ~ lines the roadway. Trudging along I next passed used car lots and abandoned service stations.

About thirty minutes in my walk I finally reached East Mohave Street, which would lead me to Carolina’s Mexican Food Restaurant. With my right turn onto Mohave, I was suddenly in a residential neighborhood most kindly described as low income. And in the early evening, was eerily quiet. Within this neighborhood’s five or six blocks, only three children were outside, riding their bikes. Various homes’ windows were decorated with those wrought iron bars that despite all artistic efforts never truly look ornamental. One resident, maybe in a moment of levity, had squished yellow rubber duckies between the bars on one window. I got a chuckle out of that. By now I was trudging along, when I spied a restaurant ~ an abandoned restaurant ~ to my right.  I was worried. I had passed numerous homes that had been bought up by the Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport (planes now fly above and parallel to Mohave Street) and I wondered if Carolina’s had met the same fate. But it was at the wrong address. I breathed a sigh of relief and in within a few more steps spotted Carolina’s just ahead.

I will never recommend Carolina’s to anyone who doesn’t have a sense of adventure in sampling the local cuisine. The building that houses Carolina’s was probably built long before I was born. Stripping the paint from its walls would be the equivalent of a vertical archeological dig. The menu is simple. Almost everything comes with a homemade tortilla with the diameter of a Stetson. It serves good, solid food of the neighborhood. I chose a “burro,” which is known elsewhere as a burrito, filled with chorizo, beans, cheese and potatoes. Not only is it the closest thing to a self-contained meal, it is very good. Worth the walk. (Of course, I justified eating this monster because I walked.) So, not only did I find a good, local, ethic restaurant, I had one heck of an adventure in walking there.